Byline: WILLIAM M. DOWD
MALTA The conventional wisdom is that when an institution closes, the void takes some time to fill. But that is being put to the test here in Saratoga County.
Michael Viggiani's The Elms, long one of the top restaurants in the area, is no more. He now spends his time with the Naples, Fla., restaurant that used to share his attention. Since mid-May, a trio of partners has been operating the Elm Tree Tavern in the low, rambling old building on a corner of Routes 9 and 9P. Judging by a visit there last Sunday, they're in for a long run.
The country tavern feeling immediately envelops the visitor, setting a mood of warmth and relaxation: …
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